Tulip Watch 2022

Going back to before I moved from Ann Arbor for a quick look at how the tulips fared this year. As I’ve mentioned before, someone who had the apartment before me planted tulips at some point. Without me doing anything at all, they keep coming back each year, and may possibly be spreading, or it could just have been a good year for them this year. Sometimes they get eaten by deer before having a chance to bloom, or last year they were unceremoniously mowed down shortly after blooming (I rescued the less mangled flowers, stuck them in a jam jar, and brought them into the apartment), but this year I had just under two dozen tulips bloom.

I took my telephoto lens out for a spin on a few separate evenings to take advantage of the shallow depth of field on the lens and the softer light of the declining sun. Without getting into an optics discussion, given a particular focal distance, a lens with a longer focal length has a shallower depth of field. For example, if you’re taking a photo of a flower two meters away with a Canon Rebel T6, at an aperture of f/5.6, an 18 mm wide angle lens has a depth of field (DOF) of 4.63 meters (0.79 m in front/3.84 m behind), a 55 mm focal length has a DOF of 0.28 m, and a 250 mm focal length has a DOF of just 0.01 m. Of course, the wider the focal length the more you have in the picture besides the flower, but generally speaking, using a longer focal length decreases the depth of field and increases the separation between your subject and its background. That said, here are the tulips.

Most of this year's tulip crop

Cuyahoga Valley National Park

On our long drive back east, we passed right by Cuyahoga Valley National Park in Ohio, so we had to make a quick stop for a hike. The Cuyahoga Valley is located between Cleveland and Akron and the Cuyahoga River is famous for, among other things, catching on fire. This happened at least 13 times, and the June 22, 1969 fire helped to bolster the beginnings of the American environmental movement. In 1974, the Cuyahoga Valley was designated a National Recreation Area, then on October 11, 2000, was made a national park.

Boston Mill Visitor Center

We didn’t have much time at Cuyahoga, and the one hike that you do if you only have time for one hike at Cuyahoga is the Ledges Trail, which is what we did. If the parking lot at Brandywine Falls wasn’t closed, we might have also tried to sneak in a glance at a waterfall, but that wasn’t in the cards for this visit. The Ledges Trail is a 1.8 mile loop that circles a plateau of rock formations. The trail network around the Ledges Trail also includes several cut-through trails and side trails that connect to other areas of the park. The trail is primarily dirt and rock, with rock steps in several places. Along the way, you walk at the bottom of and between rock cliffs that are fun to explore but difficult to fully capture in photos.

Ledges Trail

The trail passes by a cave, but to protect the bats there from white-nose syndrome, caused by the white fungus Pseudogymnoascus destructans that can decimate bat populations, the entrance was barred. There’s also an overlook, the Ledges Overlook, that didn’t seem to be overlooking anything of much significance. Especially in late spring and summer with the trees filled with leaves, you mostly just see a lot of trees with leaves. The rest of the trail makes up for It, however. And as we were nearing the end of the trail, we spotted a barred owl, out in the evening, our first time seeing an owl in the wild.

Barred owl

Cuyahoga Valley National Park is slightly unusual in that it can almost be described as an urban national park, with 4 million people living within a half hour drive of the park. Parts of the park either abut and/or are managed by Cleveland Metroparks, Summit Metro Parks, or private owners. Besides the ledges, it contains waterfalls, wetlands, ravines, forests, and more. The Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad goes through the park and offers scenic railroad rides throughout the year. There is no fee to enter the park, though we still made a quick stop at the Boston Visitor Center to talk to the park ranger, and pick up a map and stamp. There’s plenty we didn’t get to see in the park, so we might be back if we’re ever in the area, though I also still have about 400 (of 423) National Park Sites and hundreds and thousands of state and local parks to visit.

Notre Dame

Because of transportation scheduling, instead of dropping my brother and his girlfriend back off in Kalamazoo, we made a further detour to South Bend, Indiana for them to catch a train there. On our way south from Glen Arbor, we first made a stop at the Point Betsie Lighthouse. It was closed, but we weren’t trying to take a tour anyway, so we got a few photos and moved on. We reached South Bend in the late afternoon, with some time to look around Notre Dame.

 

Point Betsie Lighthouse

Notre Dame was founded in 1842 and covers 1,261 acres in Notre Dame, IN outside of South Bend. As of fall 2020, they had a total enrollment of 12,700 students, split 8,700 and 4,000 between undergraduates and graduate students. The school was not officially coed until 1972, though women had received (mostly religious) degrees from Notre Dame since 1917. Their sports teams compete in the Atlantic Coast Conference (ACC) except for football (unaffiliated) and men’s ice hockey (Big Ten).

The major landmarks on the Notre Dame campus are probably the football stadium, the Basilica, and Touchdown Jesus (actually called the Word of Life). We did not go into the football stadium, the Basilica was closed on the afternoon we were there, and we did get to see Touchdown Jesus. After walking around for a while (and passing by the ChemE building), we went into the Duncan Student Center, next to the stadium. This was a really nice building with dining options, study spaces, a climbing wall, and a track and gym. I’m still kind of mad at Michigan for closing their climbing wall right before I started there and planning to build a new one after I left. We had an early dinner, then had to drop my brother and his girlfriend off at the train.

 

Basilica

Because we wanted to see the inside of the Basilica, we returned to Notre Dame the next morning before leaving Indiana to head back to Ann Arbor. It was an impressive building, filled with statuary, murals, stained glass windows, and an organ. Since we were on campus, we also stopped by the Snite Museum of Art. The museum was pretty typical of a university art museum – not huge, but they had a decent variety of paintings, sculptures, painted plates, gilded cups, etc. ranging from 16th century European oil paintings of earls and counts to modern art.

 

Touchdown Jesus

Notre Dame has a pleasant campus, though it seemed rather abandoned, even for summer (graduation was the week before, so the undergrads might not have returned for summer activities yet and the grad students were probably locked in the basement). Everything was also fairly well contained, with grassy quads, tree-lined paths, and few road crossings to get run over at. There was what looked like a nice commercial block with restaurants, shopping, and lodging just south of campus, though we didn’t walk there. Otherwise, the surrounding area seemed to lack the natural areas and hiking trails of Ithaca and the larger variety of restaurants, stores, theaters, etc. of a bigger city like Ann Arbor. I’m not sure I would have wanted to go to college there, but campus was nice for a visit.

The ChemE building

Sleeping Bear Dunes, part 2

For the second half of the trip, I had a couple more hikes planned. In the morning, after another round of sandwich making, we headed out for Alligator Hill. Alligator Hill has a total of nine miles of trails divided into three loops. We took the shortest loop to the Islands Lookout and back with a detour along the spur to the Big Glen Lookout, for a total of 4.3 miles, our longest single hike of the trip. The internet told me that Alligator Hill was a fun hike with great views of Lake Michigan and Glen Lake, but especially after the previous day the views were good but not amazing.

On the trail at Alligator Hill

The dirt trail is mostly wooded, and Alligator Hill is indeed a hill, so there is some ascending/descending, but nothing overly strenuous. After 1.3 miles, you reach the Islands Lookout which does give nice views of Lake Michigan, including North and South Manitou Island. While we were stopped to snack on bananas and take photos, we saw a bald eagle in the wild for the first time, and I did get a not entirely in focus picture with my telephoto lens. Shortly after that point, we turned off the main trail to the Big Glen Lookout. It was a 1.6 mile detour, and when we got to the clearing in the trees I’m not sure I can say it was really worth it. About all I can say about it is that it was a view of a lake.

View from the Islands Lookout

Back at the parking lot after a couple hours+, we piled back into the car and drove to the Dunes Trail to have lunch at the picnic area there. From there, we continued on to the last hike I had planned, Pyramid Point. Pyramid Point is another short trail that leads to a view of Lake Michigan. There’s a 2.7 mile loop, but we just did the 0.6 miles (one way) to the lookout and back. At the lookout, we had more large bird sightings – a small group of turkey vultures and a likely red-tailed hawk (the red tail was not visible in the photo I got). We took about an hour to hike up to the lookout, enjoy the lake from the top of the bluff, and hike down from the lookout.

View from Pyramid Point

At that point, it was midafternoon, and we’d completed all the hikes I had planned for us, so we drove around for a bit, stopped in Glen Haven (a former company town where you can still see the general store, cannery-turned-boathouse-museum, and blacksmith shop), then returned to the Airbnb early. After dinner, we walked to the beach for a Lake Michigan sunset, then closed out the night by watching Shrek Forever After.

From left to right: bald eagle, turkey vultures, red-tailed hawk

Sunset over Lake Michigan

We probably could have fit more into the trip, but we saw most of the main attractions, except maybe really getting to enjoy the beach and I’ve heard the Maritime Museum is interesting. It felt cooler than my Upper Peninsula trip back in October, but it didn’t rain. I’m really not a huge food/shopping person, so I didn’t mind the tradeoff of closed stores for no crowds. I shot the whole trip on my T6 with an ultrawide (10-18mm) and a telephoto (55-250mm) lens, and I think it works well for hiking trips, possibly not as good if we had been indoors more/at all. Overall, it was a good trip.

Sleeping Bear Dunes, part 1

Before leaving Ann Arbor, we took a quick family vacation to the west side of Michigan to see the Sleeping Bear Dunes, another one of the things you should probably see if you lived in Michigan for six years. Like Pictured Rocks, Sleeping Bear is National Lakeshore managed by the U.S. National Park Service; a weeklong pass for a private vehicle costs $25. We spent two full days at Sleeping Bear, and did four of the hikes in the Lakeshore, which covered most of the highlights of the area – climbing the dunes, spending some time on a Lake Michigan beach, and getting various views of the lake and dunes.

Our first day was primarily a travel day – we left Ann Arbor bright and more or less early, picked up my brother and his girlfriend in Kalamazoo, and arrived in Glen Arbor midafternoon after a stop for a lunch of pasties¹ (another Michigan thing to try before leaving), an apple dumpling, and apple blueberry pie. The Airbnb we stayed at in Glen Arbor was nice, even if I was literally sleeping behind the closets of both actual bedrooms. After checking in and unpacking a little, we went out to explore Glen Arbor, walked to the beach, and had dinner at Cherry Republic.

 

Dunes Trail with Lake Michigan in the distance

The next morning, we set out on our second longest but most challenging and probably also most iconic hike, the 3.5 mile (round trip) Dunes Trail up the Dune Climb to Lake Michigan. We were at Sleeping Bear the weekend before Memorial Day, before the official tourist season started. Some amenities and restaurants were still closed for the winter, but enough was open that it was worth not dealing with crowds anywhere. The weather was cool (highs close to 289 K²) but clear throughout the entire trip, so shorts and jacket weather, plus extra jacket + glove-mittens for the wind off of Lake Michigan. There were about three cars in the parking lot when we got to the Dune Climb, and we eventually encountered a half dozen or so groups of people on our way to the lake.

The initial climb is the longest sustained incline, but you do have to climb and descend four more dunes on the way to Lake Michigan. The sand is indeed coarse, rough, and everywhere, but wasn’t too irritating. The entire route is on sand, though you pass through areas with dune grass, flowers, and small trees, and though the way is mostly straightforward, it’s marked with blue-tipped poles to steer people away from alligators areas where they’re trying to prevent erosion. At a fairly leisurely pace and stopping a lot to take photos, it took us about eighty minutes each way. We had lunch, part 1, when we got to Lake Michigan, where it was windy and cold, so we didn’t explore the water much. Back at the parking lot, we had lunch part 2, featuring more of my favorite vacation anytime food, peanut butter and jam sandwiches.

At Lake Michigan at the end of the Dunes Trail

After lunch, we stopped by the main visitor center, the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center, to pick up a park pass, map, and stamp, then continued on to our second hike of the day, the Empire Bluff Trail. The internet told me this was one of the most popular trails, so I guess we had to do it. It’s a relative quick 1.5 mile hike that goes through forest before coming out on a boardwalk that boasts views of Lake Michigan and the lakeshore. It was nice, worth doing, and only takes about an hour of your time.

View from Empire Bluff Trail

Finally, we drove the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, a 7.4-mile loop with a dozen stops where you can get out for photos, though a few of the stops appeared to have views of nothing but trees. When we were there, I believe the drive had just opened for the summer (it’s closed in the winter). You are allowed to bike it, though the NPS website advises only expert cyclists to attempt it. The overlooks, complete with informational signs, provide views of Lake Michigan, the dunes, and the Glen Lakes, and there are also some hikes and picnic areas that are accessed from the drive. We spent about an hour and a half driving, stopping, getting out of the car, enjoying the views, getting back in the car, etc. before heading back to our Airbnb for the night. All in all, it was a successful first day of our trip.

At the Lake Michigan Overlook on Pierce Stocking Drive

¹A pasty is a hand pie filled with meat and root vegetables (potatoes, rutabaga, etc.) brought to Michigan from Cornwall.

²60 F/16 C